That bite and burn as it goes down your throat is what gives it the health-promoting qualities you're paying for. If yours doesn't have distinct bitter, peppery, and fruity qualities, both you and your oil have been had. You also get to learn about various methods of olive oil production, the qualities and flavors it should have, and some fascinating historical uses of the oil.Ī lot of people think a good olive oil should be mild in flavor and smell. It's primarily devoted to the worldwide history of olive oil adulteration and the corruption, ignorance, and apathy that allow it to continue. This book is quite thorough for its length. There are a few honest producers, but they are being driven out of the market by the charlatans who can sell their trashy oil at lower prices. Neither the sellers nor the regulatory agencies are looking out for your interests.
That pretty bottle of oil on your shelf for which you paid a premium price has probably been defiled more than once before being dressed up and sold as a virgin. It can be disheartening to read about the extraordinary benefits of pure, fresh olive oil, only to be told you're not likely to get it unless you grow and process your own olives. A rich and deliciously readable narrative, Extra Virginity is also an inspiring account of the artisanal producers, chemical analysts, chefs, and food activists who are defending the extraordinary oils that truly deserve the name "extra-virgin." Today's researchers are continuing to confirm the remarkable, life-giving properties of true extra-virgin, and "extra-virgin Italian" has become the highest standard of quality.īut what if this symbol of purity has become deeply corrupt? Starting with an explosive article in The New Yorker, Tom Mueller has become the world's expert on olive oil and olive oil fraud-a story of globalization, deception, and crime in the food industry from ancient times to the present, and a powerful indictment of today's lax protections against fake and even toxic food products in the United States. The sacred history and profane present of a substance long seen as the essence of health and civilization.įor millennia, fresh olive oil has been one of life's necessities-not just as food but also as medicine, a beauty aid, and a vital element of religious ritual.
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